Dressing Masculinity Among Black Men in Paris Since the Mid-1970s.

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dc.contributor.author Logan, Tanya Camela en_US
dc.date.accessioned 2014-10-13T18:20:27Z
dc.date.available NO_RESTRICTION en_US
dc.date.available 2014-10-13T18:20:27Z
dc.date.issued 2014 en_US
dc.date.submitted en_US
dc.identifier.uri http://hdl.handle.net/2027.42/108978
dc.description.abstract This dissertation argues that clothing shapes black men’s gender and racial identifications and their relation to notions of nationhood and physical space in Paris. I explore black men’s deliberate cultivation of clothing styles to assert their masculinity, meaning social authority, through readings of literature, cultural events, and images featuring clothing, thereby engaging literary and cultural studies, as well as postcolonial theory, ethnography, and history. My conclusions about black men’s use of clothing for identity expression contribute to theoretical discussions of the intersectionality of race and gender performance in gender and masculinity studies and in African and African diaspora studies and offer additional perspectives on race and gender within fashion studies. Moreover, by forming a discussion of blackness and masculinity not only around skin but also clothing, I introduce race emphatically into the critical perspective of French studies. After presenting a theoretical framing of how clothing layered on skin is also read as skin within the colonial gaze (Frantz Fanon’s Peau noire, masques blancs, Ousmane Sembène’s Le docker noir, Le rire’s “Chochotte prend son chocolat dans son lit,” Simon Njami’s African gigolo) this dissertation focuses on three key sites of black masculinity expression through clothing: the French national football team, hip-hop culture, and Congolese Sape community. An analysis of deliberations over black footballers’ expression of muscular masculinity by way of the maillot bleu in two football scandals (l’affaire Mediapart and l’affaire Le Pen) reveals the linkage between black men’s clothing and notions of race, gender, and Frenchness. An examination of hip-hop enthusiasts’ hypermasculine clothing styles (Lauren Ekué’s Icône urbaine and Insa Sané’s Du plomb dans le crâne) illustrates how clothing reshapes understandings of black and banlieues culture and space, and the significance of both to Parisian culture. Lastly, an investigation of Congolese sapeurs’ motivations for sporting the Sape “Look” (Alain Mabanckou’s Black bazar and Frédéric Ciriez’s Mélo) challenges assumptions of audience for black men’s gender expression through clothing. Bringing these analyses together, I identify clothing as a critical site for thinking through intersectionality and present black men’s clothing as evidence of African culture’s influence on French culture. en_US
dc.language.iso en_US en_US
dc.subject Black Masculinity en_US
dc.subject Fashion en_US
dc.subject Francophone African Immigrant Expressive Culture en_US
dc.subject Sape en_US
dc.subject Hip-hop Fashion en_US
dc.subject Maillot Bleu en_US
dc.title Dressing Masculinity Among Black Men in Paris Since the Mid-1970s. en_US
dc.type Thesis en_US
dc.description.thesisdegreename PhD en_US
dc.description.thesisdegreediscipline Romance Languages & Literatures: French en_US
dc.description.thesisdegreegrantor University of Michigan, Horace H. Rackham School of Graduate Studies en_US
dc.contributor.committeemember Ekotto, Frieda en_US
dc.contributor.committeemember Hayes, Jarrod L. en_US
dc.contributor.committeemember McCracken, Peggy S. en_US
dc.contributor.committeemember Ampene, Kwasi en_US
dc.subject.hlbsecondlevel Humanities (General) en_US
dc.subject.hlbsecondlevel Romance Languages and Literature en_US
dc.subject.hlbsecondlevel Women's and Gender Studies en_US
dc.subject.hlbtoplevel Humanities en_US
dc.description.bitstreamurl http://deepblue.lib.umich.edu/bitstream/2027.42/108978/1/camelal_1.pdf
dc.owningcollname Dissertations and Theses (Ph.D. and Master's)
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