Class formation, diet and economic transformation in two Brazilian fishing communities.

Abstract

As cash economies replace traditional ones, some people develop negative associations with their traditions. This is true in formerly subsistence based communities in Northeastern Brazil, where newly imported foods are increasingly popular and confer prestige to their consumers in spite of their well known health risks. To explore this, I use longitudinal and ethnographic data in two former subsistence-oriented fishing communities in the region where ecological deterioration has largely eliminated the traditional economy. The two communities differ greatly in their response to this change. One developed a tourist economy that allows easy access to cash and processed foods. This community also attracts numerous migrants from great distances. The second survives on cash remittances, horticulture, and commercial hunting. Nevertheless, fishing still plays a role in the economic life of the two towns. Thus, in both communities, some are able to access more different foods than others. In particular, those with more cash income can eat more foods unknown in the two communities until recently. This clearly affects nutrition in the two communities. Wealthier adults, not surprisingly, have better nutrition in the two communities. This trend is particularly dramatic in children. While poor households in the two communities generally house undernourished children, boys suffer more than girls. This is a rare occurrence the world over, and occurs because of local expectations and treatment of children. Parents treat boys this way to attempt to assure that their sons are more active and assertive. This results in boys who are more likely to suffer from nutritional deficiencies than their sisters. Parents, however, do not know this and continue to push boys into greater activity. Local beliefs currently favor new foods as well. Residents of both communities have strong beliefs in the health benefits of new foods and positive associations with new foods and prestige. Additionally, social, religious, and sexual life favors such foods. Thus, food creates local social classes with local beliefs and biology.